I am completely humbled by my trip experiences so far, and especially by the beating I took from yesterdays’ waves. I had never experienced a rip before nor had I been so pummeled by the ocean.
Standing up was impossible, everyone on the beach took one beating after another. Even where the waves broke at the shore would throw you upside down, tumbling, eating sand, being thrown 50 feet back to the beach uncontrollably. It was quite the battle! I crunched my back, smacked myself in the head with surf board and boogie board, swallowed tons of water, and grasped for air on several occasions.
I finally made it out to the larger waves after having been pulled to the shore by the rip a few times. This time I was equipped with flippers and a boogie board and a local champion professional boogie boarder. The waves were about 6 feet. I was able to catch three of them, one I rode almost back to the shore and actually had people whooping with me, collaborating our energy to combat the angry ocean.
Incredibly fun, but incredibly humbled. I’m so sunburnt that my face is swollen and my nose has blisters. My feet are cut up from the rocks and the flippers. My feet are still stinging from the ant bites after climbing a huge rock to watch the sun set and the surfers, from our private theater atop the rock.
I think later today I’ll take a break from the sun, and either head to Libertad or San Salvador. I just finished a $1.50 breakfast of eggs, bread, cheese, rice/beans. Last night’s dinner feast was fantastic. I am broken down today but still very happy, great energy flowing here.